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The Weight of Ink: An Afternoon with Dmitry Muratov

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The rain was hammering against the window of the small cafe, blurring the bustling city street outside into a smear of greys and dull yellows. I sat at a corner table, nursing a coffee that had gone cold twenty minutes ago. My notebook lay open, the pages blank, shivering slightly every time the door opened and a draft of cold air rushed in. I was waiting for a Nobel Peace Prize laureate. When you imagine meeting a figure of history—someone who has stood face-to-face with authoritarianism, who has buried colleagues and carried the weight of a silenced nation on his shoulders—you expect thunder. You expect an entourage, a visible aura of intensity. Dmitry Muratov walked in alone. He shook off his umbrella, hung up his heavy coat, and looked around with the confused, amiable expression of a grandfather looking for his grandchildren in a crowded mall. When his eyes found mine, his face broke into a warm, crinkling smile. "I am sorry," he said, his voice a deep, gravelly rumble t...